I think all the aims are perfectly reasonable and if builders use the kit moulds and planks according to the instructions the hulls should be very evenly matched. It would be quite difficult to use the kit parts and make a faster shape, and given how good a designer Ian is, it would be very risky to depart from his lines.

As long as builders declare they have built the boat using the kit parts I doubt whether measuring would be necessary, but it could always be done at an event to save the measurer travelling. 

We have already declared an intention to use spaced gunwales. These will use the same dimension timber as the plans but spaced away from the inside of the planking by blocks. In fact with the weight of the blocks they will be a bit heavier than the standard gunwales, but stronger and stiffer. Since they do not sacrifice safety for speed they are within the aims you have stated.

We also want to try the ancient Viking steering oar instead of a stern hung rudder. If it works, fine, others may want to try it, and if not then we'll grind it off and make a rudder. I don't think it will create an unfair advantage, I just think it'll be easier to lift when beaching.

As to oars, kabes, rudder, etc, I think they should be open to experimentation so that the best systems evolve. Obviously we don't want outriggers, sliding seats and so on. Oars can use a lot of tuning and so can the exact rowing geometry, which is going to be part of the fun. Our oars are solid timber and with no hollows, as seems appropriate for oars which are to be easy to make. 

I have posted a message on the building part of the forum suggesting that thole pins working in a slot in the oar might be a better system than kabes and humlibaunds, which seem to have an unavoidable amount of slop. Other boats which use this system include the Irish racing currachs, which use a metal pin for the thole pin.They are quite crude and cheap boats, much lighter and cheaper than ours. They are covered with tarred canvas.  The pins are I think mild steel but stainless would be better. It could be done with a timber pin, say 1 inch diameter oak, if metal is not allowed, but I think we should be allowed the experiment. Metal pins would allow the slot to be narrower and thus make the oar less bulky.

We might also want to try plastic wear plates instead of wood, but they could be greased wood if we don't mind the grease on our clothes. 

The website says this is a development class, with a fixed hull shape. I think that is good because it should give level racing but allow some experimentation. At the end of the first season we should meet and decide if any further restrictions are needed. If developments are taking place which we think are unhealthy then we can deal with that. 

We are all enjoying the build and tonight scarphed the second planks.

Cheers, Topher.

robbiew said:

Hi folks,

I am trying to draft rules of measurement for the St Ayles skiff, with the aims of (1) ensuring that boats are evenly matched, and races are a fair test of effort, skill and seamanship and (2) ensuring that safety is not sacraficed for speed (3) ensuring the moderately skilled home builder can produce as effective, if not as beautiful, a boat as a professional. 

Plan is to say that the hulls should be standard by being build from a kit supplied by an approved supplier, as accurately as possible to the plans of Mr Oughtred, with an understanding that builders will declare that they have abided by the spirit of the aims.  Timber and plywood to be the materials.

Plan is to leave oars to development, but rule  that they are made of timber, and without any concave surface (ie no spoon blades).

Initial thoughts are to leave tiller / yoke design and kabe (sp) design to the builders, again as long as all made of timber, and no outrigger type arrangements.  I will try to post a first draft soon, but would welcome any thoughts in the meantime.

Robbie

I am trying to draft rules of measurement for the St Ayles skiff, with the aims of (1) ensuring that boats are evenly matched, and races are a fair test of effort, skill and seamanship and (2) ensuring that safety is not sacraficed for speed (3) ensuring the moderately skilled home builder can produce as effective, if not as beautiful, a boat as a professional. 

Plan is to say that the hulls should be standard by being build from a kit supplied by an approved supplier, as accurately as possible to the plans of Mr Oughtred, with an understanding that builders will declare that they have abided by the spirit of the aims.  Timber and plywood to be the materials.

Plan is to leave oars to development, but rule  that they are made of timber, and without any concave surface (ie no spoon blades).

Initial thoughts are to leave tiller / yoke design and kabe (sp) design to the builders, again as long as all made of timber, and no outrigger type arrangements.  I will try to post a first draft soon, but would welcome any thoughts in the meantime.

Robbie